By Ann Volkwein
Photographs by Linda Campos

This brand-new spot in South Egremont brings a little nightlife and a vintage vibe to the Berkshires scene.

Head west toward New York on 23, and as you climb and catch the bend near Catamount, lights from a low-slung building entice you to drop down the rabbit hole and enter Hy’s Fried.

Owner Jack Luber said his inspiration from day one for Hy’s was a combination of Alice in Wonderland, The Shining, and the bar in The Deerhunter. Shuffle that deck and you’re playing on a game board with black and white and jolts of lipstick red, from the seating to the shine-slicked tiles in the bathrooms. There’s a painting of a rooster above the mantel—it seems to be saying “Eat Me, Alice,” as the concise menu revolves around the bird.

The establishment came with a solid sense of place. Once upon a time, from the ’40s until it closed in the ’80s, it was known and loved as the Old Egg, a bar that showcased bluegrass, blues, and folk music. Luber’s approach was to preserve but scrub well. He removed, cleaned, and returned the wood paneling; refinished the ceiling beams; and kept the old sign in its swirling script across the long wall of the dining area. The red-and-black vinyl tiles are original or old-sourced, and the host station is a rolling tool chest slapped with a logo.

Much like how Luber creates the vision for the homes he builds—he owns a firm called Shell & Core in Amagansett, New York—Hy’s design was fully conceived in his head long before a Red Stripe was chilled. “It was good to get it out from between my ears and onto the canvas. It took 14 months to build. We all have our strong points in our vocation; I have a 3D printer in my head.”

The atmosphere walks a line, with a bird theme and a roadhouse feel, that somehow never falls into camp or kitsch. Sure, there’s a chicken sculpture or six, but each one is special. The topic of chicken runs deep for Luber. “Hy is our namesake. He was my grandfather’s prize cock and he died the year I was born, in ’64. We just figured we’d roll with it. People will come in and ask me if I am Hy… I’ll pause and say ‘usually.’”

From 1989 to 2002, Luber ran a club called Frankie Jackson’s Soul Kitchen in New York. “We gave away free spicy fried chicken wings all night. And my cousins own all the Dallas BBQs in the city and all the boroughs. So, food is there in the family, but chicken especially, weirdly enough.”

He and his wife, Leilani Bishop, a well-known model for more than 30 years, came to the area after finding themselves a bit stir-crazy during COVID. The Berkshires had been a part of Luber’s life since childhood visits to Pine Plains, NY. Longtime family friend Steven Picheny in Great Barrington became his business partner in Hy’s. With Bishop’s blessing, Luber dove back into hospitality.

You can find him there most nights—sometimes spinning on Saturdays—while Bishop helps when needed and their son Cassius pitches in when he’s in town. The kitchen is helmed by head chef James Brinson, with veteran operator Alex Glen running the floor. “Alex is the best operator in the upper Hudson Valley. He lives and dies and breathes food and beverage and I am blessed to have him,” Luber said.

Around 8:30 on weekends, tables and chairs are cleared away to make room for dancing. The DJ booth is “all vinyl, all the time,” said Luber. “We’re trying to program Friday through Sunday, and Saturdays will always be a dance night with me or someone playing genres like classic disco and garage, heavy funk and soul and then eclectic stuff. Fridays we’re going to be pushing a reggae dancehall vibe. I just want to create a vibe where people are comfortable, and they can pop in on a weekend and dance. I want people to sweat and let loose in here.”

His philosophy is to let the crowd define the business. Guests are encouraged to take their time at the tables. This fall, Luber welcomes you to stop by for “a fireplace and some kumbaya.” The goal, he said, is for people to feel they’ve found a place that’s theirs.

Hy’s Fried
264 Hillsdale Rd., Rte. 23, South Egremont
hysfried.com

About that Fried Chicken

A close friend of Luber’s, Top Chef alum Sam Talbot, developed the baseline recipes for the purposefully limited menu, then let the Hy’s team fly. “Sam’s a fried chicken murderer. Birds are afraid of him,” Luber joked.

• The Chicken: Brined for seven hours, dredged in rice flour and tapioca (gluten-free), and optionally tossed in a homemade hot honey sambal.
  
• The Sandwich: Sambal-tossed chicken on a large King’s Hawaiian roll, with slaw and pickles—a monster.
  
• The Potato Salad: Served warm with barbecue flavor.
  
• The Vegan Option: Cauliflower with garlic chili crisps, hot oil, mint, and cilantro.