By Ann Volkwein
Photographs by Linda Campos
Claire Collery is conscious of being at the helm of a piece of Lenox history. As she guides this ship, her North Star is a feeling of rekindled vibrancy. One of Collery’s winter projects is to turn the front hall of the Apple Tree Inn into an exhibit that will trace its progression from a 19th-century private home inhabited by a John Jacob Astor descendant, to a haven for ’50s Beat intellectuals, to the groovy third and final Alice’s Restaurant it housed in the ’70s.
“This was the spot,” explained Collery. “They had all these awesome musicians performing here, and speakers. It was packed all the time.” It’s that sense of community that Collery seeks to bring back. “I want everyone to feel welcome,” she said. “I just can’t get over looking out over the mountains. When we light the fireplace and there’s live music in the bar, the vibe is incredible.”
Collery’s husband, Toph Tucker, is a computer programmer professionally, and, among other tasks, he manages the website, signage, and printed matter for the hotel. “I like doing projects together, as a love language,” said Tucker. “This gives me a very good, organic, natural excuse.”
This summer, they were introduced to another couple who happened to be looking for a project they could build and nurture together—and it answered the question of who would handle the Inn’s food and beverage offerings. Chef Hagai Avrahami and his wife, Adi Talby, moved from Israel with their son in 2023. Seeking a less stressful pace of life, Avrahami and Talby had first looked to settle in Greece, but they found that route too challenging. Through the help of friends in Hillsdale, New York, they were able to change course to the Berkshires.
“My blood pressure went down 20% two weeks after we got here,” said Avrahami. Talby added, “We loved the wooded areas, the single roads of the Berkshires. It’s really special here. This is a dream. We are so grateful.”
This fall saw the opening of Baladi, a brunch restaurant in the inn’s 18-sided room with a view. Avrahami brings 20 years of fine dining, catering, and teaching experience to the kitchen (including working as executive chef for Israel’s Gan Sipur restaurants).
“In Israel, brunch is not just flour and eggs, it’s vegetables and herbs, fish, breads and pastries, savory and sweet. It’s a whole culture,” explained Avrahami.
Alongside brioche French toast with maple-infused mascarpone, warm cheese burekas, creamy Benedicts, and tangy shakshuka on the menu, you’ll find the shareable Baladi Breakfast that highlights fresh salads, soft Moroccan bread called frena, eggs, and a variety of spreads. “We are making everything here by hand: sauces, smoked meats, pastry, bread, pickles, olives, and desserts. That’s our philosophy,” said Avrahami. “It’s a melting pot of Moroccan, Iranian, Greek, Turkish, Israeli, Lebanese, and Palestinian, made with the beautiful local ingredients that we have here.”
Apple Tree Inn
10 Richmond Mountain Rd., off Route 183
appletreeinnlenox.com
Baladi: Saturdays and Sundays 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Ostrich Room: Wednesday to Saturday, opens at 5 p.m.
Fireside Sips
The Apple Tree’s Ostrich Room has an extensive cocktail and bar menu, live music, and a large roaring fireplace. “All of the wood that we burn is cut and cured here on our property,” said Collery.
Here are a few more warm spots to gather on cold days:
- The Airport Rooms at Tourists, North Adams | touristswelcome.com
- Rubi’s Café, Great Barrington | @rubiscafe
- Hy’s Fried, South Egremont | hysfried.com
- Stagecoach Tavern at Race Brook Lodge, Sheffield | rblodge.com
- Little Cat Lodge, Hillsdale, NY | littlecatlodge.com
- Maggie’s Tavern at Winvian, Morris, CT | winvian.com
- Alt/Alcohol-free Option: Grab a Turmeric Tonic and sidle up to the glow of the new Pac Man machine at No Comply Foods, Great Barrington | nocomplyfoods.com
