By Pops Peterson
South Egremont mourned when The Old Mill closed its doors in 2024, as it lost its most venerable restaurant. The upscale crowd at The Old Mill was one of the toniest and the bar was a comfortable haven for locals. What hurt the most, however, was the prospect of never having their calf’s liver again! Then, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, The Old Mill re-opened. Terry Moore has trimmed its name down to The Mill, reduced the menu, and revamped the décor. One thing he didn’t change—thank goodness—was my beloved calf’s liver, which is as luscious as ever.
My father cooked the tastiest calf’s liver when we were kids, which explains my devotion to the dish. Caramelized onions and smoked bacon pieces on top, with sides of mashed potatoes and arugula, finish off one of my favorite plates of food.
Another tasty blast from the past was the duck cassoulet at Rouge Restaurant in West Stockbridge. I’ll never forget the tenderness of the duck legs and the dark, mushiness of the black beans. The menu was enormous, yet I always ordered the same irresistible meal. Sadly, after more than 20 years, Rouge closed its doors in 2022.
These days, my favorite mouthful of duck is served at Pittsfield’s Sibarita’s. It’s their Half Roasted Duck—the bottom and more succulent half. Served with mashed pecorino garbanzo beans and roasted balsamic broccolini, and topped with shallot cranberry honey soy sauce, it’s an entrée I love, to say nothing of its massive size and how easy it is to make two meals out of it.
The White Hart Inn
The Barn Kitchen & Bar at The Williams Inn has another XL dish I adore. I’m talking about their incredible Grilled Pork Chop. So tender and thick, this plate comes with crisp grilled broccolini, chorizo, and a soothing white bean ragout. If Williamstown is too far north, then I highly recommend the pork chop at Fern in Lakeville, Connecticut, which is equally amazing.
While in Connecticut, you may want to check out the fish and chips at The White Hart Inn in Salisbury. The lighter-than-air fried fish is unlike any I’ve ever tasted. It’s perfectly balanced with extra-thick, hand-cut potato slices, mushy green peas, and bespoke tartar sauce. The moment you taste it, you’ll want to come back and order it again.
Robbie’s Community Market
When a restaurateur names a dish after himself, you know it’s his pride and joy. And Robby Robles has every right to be proud of his signature pizza, The Roberto, at Robbie’s Community Market in Great Barrington. The crackle of the thin crust, the gooeyness of the mozzarella, the chewiness of the mildly spicy soppressata mixed with the sweetness of the honey drizzle—it’s a world-class artisanal pizza I can never get enough of.
And, to top it off, is there anything more magical than the Basque Cheesecake at The Cliff House in Egremont? Lusciously creamy throughout and “burnt” at the top, I dare you to find a better cheesecake anywhere on the planet. Lucky for us, The Cliff House and all of these fine restaurants are right in our own backyard.
