No Comply, photo by Linda Campos
ANN VOLKWEIN
We at The B met Ann when she pitched a story about a new restaurant that was yet to open—it would break rules and set a new standard, she said. We took her word for it. It was No Comply, Chef Stephen Browning’s brilliant showcase for his cooking, and from then on, we’ve counted on Ann for her food acumen and dazzling way with words. A longtime cookbook writer/editor, she is deeply committed to the food scene in the Berkshires, championing our region’s inventive chefs and sustainable food producers.
Rubiner’s Cheesemongers and Juju’s, Great Barrington • Hy’s Fried, South Egremont
Get your Berkshire picnic supplies. Drop into Rubiner’s for outstanding regional and world cheeses, natural wines, and accoutrements, then over to Juju’s for addictive popcorn chicken and cauliflower (get ALL the dips), or if you prefer, head south for a crunchy bucket on the bone and biscuits from Hy’s Fried.
rubiners.com • keepitjujus.com • hysfried.com
Neon Newt, Becket
For Ann’s write up of this special spot, click here.
theneonnewt.com
Tommy B’s, Craryville, NY
NY-style pizza cravings—the classic thin crust, Grandma, Sicilian, or a personal pan—are robustly satisfied at this roadside establishment. And the Roni is a pepperoni-mozzarella pinwheel—a crunchy, stretchy, melty bite that must not be passed up. Ask for a drizzle of roasted garlic oil and order ahead for take-out.
tommybspizza.com
No Comply, Great Barrington
If you can’t find me, check here first, increased odds at brunch (arugula or sautéed cabbage with poached eggs) or Greek night (grilled fish—head on, please). Chef Stephen Browning’s menu changes daily, although I think the chili-crisp, labneh-dolloped Japanese sweet potato has grown roots and many would protest if they stopped making those pancakes. Their vegan options could turn me, try them. Whatever you guys want to make, we’re eating, no complaints.
nocomplyfoods.com
Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Hudson, NY
Stop in for bold tropical style, comfort food, and party on the plate and palate. The care that goes into each of their flavor-packed sauces alone is noteworthy—and the cocktails are buzz-worthy. I can’t leave here without ordering the plantains, beans, sautéed greens, and whole fish.
lildebsoasis.com
Báladi, Egremont
Formerly in residence at the Apple Tree Inn, Báladi is now serving their Mediterranean, scratch-made breads, dips, fresh salads, burgers, schnitzels, and shakshukas at The Egremont Barn and Buttonball Inn next door. The food truck is open outside The Barn in the evening, while the restaurant serves breakfast and lunch. Don’t miss the boureka breads, flaky on the outside, cheese-filled, and sesame topped.
@baladiberkshires
A FEW WORTH-THE-DRIVE SELECTIONS
Fortunes Ice Cream and Club Sandwich, Tivoli, NY
Head to Tivoli for the region’s BEST seasonally flavored ice cream at Fortunes (ride or die: cherry labneh and halva honeycomb). For something savory, grab exceptional sandwiches (griddled halloumi, tuna Reubens…) at their new Club Sandwich across the street.
fortunesicecream.com • clubsandwichtivoli.com
Isabela, Amenia, NY
In Amenia, Chef Jose Ramirez Ruiz—who owned the Michelin-starred, veggie-forward Semilla in Brooklyn—now celebrates local producers in the Hudson Valley at Isabela. With unique beef tartare, fresh trout, clouds of gnudi, gorgeous veggies, and on-tap negronis, what’s not to like?
isabela-amenia.com
Willa, Millerton, NY
At Willa in Millerton, they take their sourcing seriously, and Chef Daniel Meissner makes beautiful food. Take note of his gentle alchemy with notes and layers of fresh herbs and spices. When you can have a peekytoe crab app nestled under delicate, herby shingles of cucumber and a Kinderhook smashburger in the same meal and both make the cut, enough said.
willahvny.com
WILLIAM LI
William is a true tastemaker, with deep roots in New York City and a home base in Columbia County. He was the co-host of Lucky Chow, an Emmy-nominated series about Asian food and culture, is the special projects editor for both Town & Country and Elle Decor (and a contributing editor to The B), and also founded and runs the art consultancy Armature Projects. In fact, he has so much going on, we’re not sure how he finds the time to scout out so many fabulous restaurants. But we’re glad he does.
The Maker, Hudson, NY
The Maker Hotel has the prettiest restaurant in the area. Whether you’re there for one of their excellent pastas or a burger in the lounge, a night at The Maker is always perfect.
themaker.com
Rubi’s, Great Barrington
Rubi’s is all about the grilled cheese—it’s the cafe in the back of Rubiner’s Cheesemongers, after all. It’s the most refined version you’ll ever have. They make it with comté—you get the comfort of a grilled cheese but with superb ingredients.
rubiners.com
Morningbird, Kinderhook, NY
You’ll find the best breakfast sandwich at Morningbird, flavored with a few Asian twists: “Lemongrass Lovers” sausage, scallion chimichurri, and sambal aioli.
theaviarykinderhook.com/morningbird
Lagonia’s, Chatham, NY
This longtime Italian bistro serves the closest thing to a New York City slice I have found up here.
lagonias.com
Fern, Lakeville, CT
Stop in for excellent Italian food in Litchfield County. The room is charming. It’s just a cozy, homey place.
fernlakeville.com
The White Hart Inn, Salisbury, CT
Grab a sandwich or a salad and an Arnold Palmer and sit out on the porch, or enjoy lunch al fresco on the lawn. It’s an iconic Litchfield County experience.
whitehartinn.com
Prairie Whale, Great Barrington
When I’m craving a New York City vibe, I head to the Whale. The menu is super seasonal, and their fried chicken is always excellent. Their vegan options are delicious, too.
prairiewhale.com
Stissing House, Pine Plains, NY
Dining at Stissing House is a dream. It’s like walking into an 18th century tavern. The building is very old, and it’s candlelit at night. The effect is so romantic, and the food is simple in the best way. I could eat there every day.
stissinghouse.com
The Lost Lamb, Stockbridge
The place to go before a picnic, for their sweet and savory pastries and great sandwiches.
lostlambpatisserie.com
Ala Shanghai, Latham, NY
I am in constant search of good Asian food up here, and Ala Shanghai is worth the schlep. It’s top notch Shanghainese food—excellent soup dumplings, delicious noodles. Their entrées taste like the home cooking I remember.
alashanghai.net
Van’s Vietnamese, Albany, NY
This Vietnamese place is beloved by the local community, particularly the SUNY students. The pho is outrageously delicious.
JP BARBEAU
You may know him as the Director of Tennis at Bousquet Sport, but JP Barbeau is also a champion of the Berkshires food scene, a go-to source for anyone wondering where (and what) to eat and drink. The Paris-born coach’s culinary bona fides go way back, and he credits his time spent eating and cooking with star chef David Bouley for fueling his lifelong pursuit of flavor. “Tennis gave me the opportunity to sample foods from around the world,” he says. “After settling in the Berkshires, I’ve found that our fantastic, farm-fresh, and eclectic offerings hold up to anywhere.”
Cantina (formerly Cantina 229), New Marlborough
Go for the authentic farm-to-table menu, stay for the super cool vibe, all within a space that manages to feel cozy and modern all at once. The bar includes awesome outdoor seating on the deck.
cantina229.com
The Cliff House, Egremont
This brand-new venue with lakeside dining is worth the trip from anywhere at all. Start with the steak tartare, followed by the outstanding Tivoli Farms mushroom stroganoff. With the dining room overlooking the water, the setting is magical.
cliffhouseberkshires.com
Bistro Box, Great Barrington
The constant line outside lets you know just how good this roadside stand is. Hang out at a picnic table and chill with a great burger and fries, or grab a picnic blanket, sit on the lawn, and make yourself at home.
thebistrobox.rocks
The Southfield Store, Southfield
This has quickly become a favorite for the new, year-round dinner service—don’t miss Oaxacan chef Gustavo Perez’s carne asada—and the best Sunday brunch in the Berkshires (duck confit eggs benedict, anyone?).
thesouthfieldstore.com
Roberto’s Pizza, Sheffield
By far the best pizza in the whole county, thanks to an impressive brick oven and the freshest ingredients. I like the new funky pub attached to the place, along with the great beer list and shaded outdoor seating right in the middle of town.
robertospizza413.com
Gedney Kitchen, New Marlborough
Chef Michele Ragussis’ cooking is truly off the charts, and the outdoor setting at Gedney Farm is amazing. The menu changes daily, but try the mushroom toast appetizer and the truly to-die-for fried chicken when you can.
gedneyfarm.com
